Sárospatak
Sárospatak, religious and power centre of the region, was once known as “Athens on the Bodrog” for its strong spiritual, artistic, intellectual and educational heritage – and it’s increasingly deserving of the title once again as the intellectual and academic scene is blossoming. Looking outwards, inviting inwards, forming national and international relations. This small city / town is home to the newly established University of Tokaj (expanded former Comenius Teacher Training College) and Tokaj School of Wine Business (in collaboration with the School of Wine & Spirits Business at Burgundy School of Business (BSB) in Dijon).
Other education institutions in this ancient academic town include the Reformed Theological Academy of Sárospatak, the Sárospatak Reformed Grammar School (founded in 1531 making it one of the earliest in Europe) with the Great Library voted one of the ten most beautiful libraries in the world and its interesting “boarding school Baroque” Museum, Bible Garden and renovated 160-year-old sports hall, plus the Árpád Vezér Grammar School nearer the Castle.
You can choose to take a guided tour in the Rákóczi Castle Museum or simply walk through the courtyard, past the well and many windows, over the sturdy wooden bridge out to the bastion. Peak into the bakehouse, look up at the Red Tower – can you see it on the 500 forint note? Let your eyes relax into the view over the castle gardens and the river Bodrog, over to the Bodrogköz where migrating birds pause in native wetlands). At the other end of the castle district stands the Roman Catholic Sárospataki Bazilika, the Sárospatak Gallery and the beautifully restored Saint Elizabeth House with rose and herb gardens.
This peaceful and attractive town set between the river Bodrog and the vineyard slopes has a range of restaurants and ice cream places, hotels and campsite by the thermal baths so is a good base for exploring the region.
Highlights
Things to see and do
Wander through the castle district and see the Castle (featured on the 500 HUF note). A ticket gives you entrance to the Red Tower with chapel, theatre niche and splendid hand-painted and restored pomegranate tiles, the underground exhibition: Wine and viticulture of the region “Hegyalja” with old Tokaji bottles, labels and even early secateurs. Just by the bridge out to the bastion.
Sárospatak Gallery encourages you to touch sculptures, smell a herb (soon) in the upcoming Incredible Edible herb garden outside and do great workshops. Immerse youself in the scents of the Saint Elizabeth House rose and herb gardens, sit under a pergola to watch a performance on the outdoor stage; go inside to the superbly restored ecclesiastical library and archive, ecclesiatic exhibition and vitrines of carved wafer forms.
Can you spot the carved doors on the former main road, Kossuth utca? And unusual buildings, some by father of Hungarian organic architecture Imre Makovecz, including the recently renovated Cultural House, Library and Cinema each of which has unusual organic elements.
Visit the Great Library in the Reformed Protestant school discover fresh-looking colourful 17th-century embroideries and early electrical equipment and experiments in their Museum. Lose yourself in the pictures and screen prints in the Sárospatak Gallery Urbán György Gallery nearby. Keys at Great Library Museujm.
Fancy something more active? Swim in the river (or take a boat – motor or paddle? even SUP paddleboard?) or swim/bathe at the outdoor thermal baths (fűrdő) in Végardó.
Walk up through vineyards to Tengerszem (Sea-eye lake), a stunning former millstone quarry reclaimed by nature on Megyer hill which is consistently voted among the natural wonders of Hungary. Go up the free 18-m-high open-air Lookout Tower for a view from 300 m above sea level over forests, vineyards and the floodplain. New challenging Via Ferrata routes suitable for more experienced climbers only combined length of 650 meters on the completely vertical walls of the Megyer Hill Tarn. Climbing equipment for hire at the visitor centre / cafe. Also a millstone milling exhibition where you might be lucky enough to try our hand / elbow at grinding wheat into flour.
Great steep walk up to the quarry lake past Harsányi Bistro and Winery and up through the vineyards, or up more gentle shaded stony path that starts further west into the valley. Or signposted from the tiny Swabian village of Károlyfalva. The village website archives extremely detailed ethnographic, school history, Swabian cuisine and natural world info and pictures.
Enjoy an ice cream in town and watch the world go by – Sárospatak has possibly the largest number of ice cream parlours in the area! And a couple of decent cake shops too.
Events
Whit weekend – costumed procession and dramas, markets and delight by the St Elisabeth Society in celebration of their patron saint. – plus re-enactment of the Botkő battle as the Castle gardens are taken by storm!
Zemplén Festival – classical concerts and almost nightly jazz concerts throughout the festival
Sárospatak Wine Terrace – by the recently renovated and well-used, well-loved Cultural House and Cinema designed by renowned organic architect, Imre Makovecz. Fans can discover his early work throughout the town.
Eating and drinking
A must for the sweet-toothed who fancy a cake experience! A couple of locally famous cake shops/cafés and at least seven places with real ice cream! Best cakes at Heitzmann cukrászda near the station, Paleo selection at Köver.
Great venues with reasonably priced food:
– A Boros friendly wine bar, terrace and shop serving contemporary foods alongside the largest range of Tokaji wines in the region by the glass and bottle too. From around the region. Run and owned by two passionate winemaker hosts. Interesting thematic gastro evenings.
– Collegno pizzeria generous portions and very warm-hearted and welcoming staff greet you in the cosy vaulted cellar in the cold winters and cool green curtains of the ivy-clad stone courtyard.
– Fekete Macska with great art and sculpture plus gardens in the castle district. Attracts a young crowd
– Grill Gödör and ruin pub with funky art overlooks the castle, its terraces lead down to the old moat
– Vár Vendéglő offers Hungarian favourites with views over the river up to the castle or in the shaded large terrace
Sárospataki Borterasz – created relaxed spaces to enjoy music and wine in Sárospatak during the Zemplén Festival.
